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None of the leading children’s fashion brands that we reviewed, including GAP, Carter’s, and The Children’s Place, have publicly committed to making fewer clothes out of polyester or other plastic materials

Portland, ME – A new scorecard reveals a significant lack of progress by the children’s fashion industry in managing plastics and chemicals. Ten leading fashion brands that sell significant shares of kids’ apparel were ranked by Defend Our Health based on their transparency, commitment, and actions taken to reduce their reliance on plastics in clothing and packaging, as well as their management of chemicals of concern. The average score of the ten brands was a C, with H&M scoring the highest at a B+ and Janie and Jack scoring the lowest at an F. The scoring process was based solely on publicly available information.

Polyester, a plastic fiber derived from fossil fuels, is now the most widely produced fiber, accounting for over half of all global fiber production. The Fashion Scorecard found that only four of the ten companies included (Carter’s, H&M Group, Ralph Lauren, and The Children’s Place) reveal to the public what portion of the materials they use are polyester or other synthetics. 

“It would be very easy for fashion companies to show their customers how much polyester they use versus cotton and other natural fibers, but only 40% of the brands we scored are taking this simple step in transparency,” said Maya Rommwatt, Director of Campaigns and Programs at Defend Our Health. “Consumers want less plastic, yet fashion’s ballooning polyester use can escape scrutiny because many consumers don’t realize that polyester is plastic.”

Toxic chemicals in clothing can enter the human body through absorption through the skin, ingestion, and inhalation. Children and infants can be more vulnerable to chemicals than adults because their brains and organs are still developing, they receive a higher dosage due to their smaller size, and they tend to put their hands and clothing in their mouths more than adults. Many of the chemicals used in polyester — including phthalates, bisphenols, and flame retardants — are known “endocrine disrupters.” Endocrine disrupters are substances that interfere with the body’s hormonal system, which is essential to a child’s development. Studies have shown that exposure to endocrine disrupters, even at low levels, can have long-lasting consequences in children.  

Chemicals in plastics and other chemicals used in and on clothing fibers and packaging may add to the overall amount of potentially dangerous chemicals to which consumers are exposed. Most plastics are made from fossil fuels using manufacturing processes that can harm surrounding communities through pollution of the air and water. Additionally, plastics manufacturing requires a myriad of chemicals that sometimes remain in the finished material. Moreover, the shedding of microplastics during product use and after disposal may pose health risks to humans. No single company examined in the scorecard has made a public commitment to reduce its use of polyester.

“Leading fashion companies should ensure that clothing made for children is free from potentially harmful chemicals, and more polyester-free choices should be made available to consumers,” said Sarah Woodbury, VP of Policy and Advocacy at Defend Our Health. “Parents and caregivers shouldn’t have to worry that their purchases could potentially put kids at risk of exposure to toxic chemicals when they’re doing their back-to-school shopping.”

Fashion brands are increasingly using third-party certifications, such as OEKO-TEX, to manage chemicals with restricted substance lists; however, in most cases, these lists do not limit chemicals of concern beyond regulatory minimums. Chemicals regulation, in turn, may lag behind the science. However, Defend Our Health applauds the nine brands included that use restricted substances lists for at least some portion of their products. Only one brand, Janie and Jack, which scored a zero, does not publicize the use of a restricted substances list.

Special attention was given to efforts by the companies that have taken steps to reduce the use of phthalates, PFAS, and PVC in their product manufacturing. PFAS are often used in clothing to make it water and stain-repellent. Yet, the class of chemicals is highly persistent, bioaccumulative, and linked to developmental, immune, and metabolic harms. PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, is sometimes used in screen printing, faux leather, waterproof coatings, and elastic bands. PVC can emit vinyl chloride, which is associated with liver damage and is a carcinogen. Phthalates are often used in conjunction with plastics such as PVC to give them flexibility. Phthalates are endocrine-disrupting chemicals with no known safe exposure level for infants and children. Some of the companies scored are taking steps to reduce these chemicals of concern. Notably, GAP Inc. reports that it has achieved the goal of not sourcing any fabrics intentionally treated with PFAS, and Carter’s has a public policy not to intentionally add PFAS to any of its apparel or accessory products.

H&M Group, which achieved the highest score, utilizes a hazard-based assessment of all chemicals in use to identify safer alternatives. This is a crucial step in the process of cleaning up chemicals used in supply chains. Companies are at risk of adopting regrettable substitutions in the form of chemicals that are less tested but ultimately have similar or even worse health effects if they cannot identify safer alternatives.